What You Need
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• Aussie Locker - Part#XD-13027
• 2 - Bottles of 80W-90 Gear Oil
• Axle Grease
• 1/2" (12 Point), 5/8" and 11/16" Sockets
• Ratchet
• Torque Wrench
• Breaker Bar
• Standard and 3 lb. Hammer
• Flat Chisel
• Pry Bar
• Punch
• Bench Vice
• Vice-Grips
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands
• Wheel Chocks
• Zip Ties
• PB Blaster
• Oil Drain Pan
• Gasket Scraper
• Hi-Temp RTV
• 1 Gallon Milk Jug
Installation
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1. Open your Aussie Locker box and verify that you have all the parts indicated
on the parts list. Also make sure that you have all the supplies listed
above before you start anything. Then, park your Jeep on a level surface,
engage your parking brake, chock your wheels, crack loose your lug nuts
(but do not remove at this time), jack up your front axle one side at a
time and then rest it on jack stands so that your tires are clear of the
ground.
2. Remove your front wheels and place them underneath your frame rails
for added protection should your Jeep fall off the jack stands.
3. Place an oil catch pan underneath your differential and then remove
the fill bolt on the differential cover using the square drive head of
a 3/8" ratchet. Next, remove all but one (top one - just leave loose)
of the bolts securing your differential cover using a 1/2" socket.
4. Place a flat chisel between the differential and cover and then carefully
tap it with a hammer until the cover separates just a bit. Slowly pry open
the cover and let your gear oil drain into the catch pan. Remove the last
bolt on top and set your differential cover aside for now.
5. Thoroughly clean out the internal components of your differential using
brake cleaner and a clean rag or paper towels. Pour your gear oil into
a 1-Gallon Milk Jug and be sure to take it to your local auto parts store
for recycling.
6. Remove the 2 bolts securing your disc brake calipers using a 1/2" socket.
Then, pull off the entire caliper and zip tie it on top of your control
arm so that it doesn't fall.
7. Now, if you look at the back of the spindle, you should see a total
of 3 bolts (1 up front and 2 behind) that have a 12 pointed head. Remove
these bolts using a 12 point 1/2" socket. Some PB Blaster and a breaker
bar may be required to do this.
8. Carefully pull your axles out about 6". You do not need to completely
remove them for this installation.
9. Okay, back to your differential. Remove the bearing caps securing your
carrier in the differential using a 5/8" socket. Please pay attention
and make note as to where each of the bearing caps goes and in what orientation
they need to be in.
10. Using the differential housing as leverage, place a pry bar between
it and the carrier inside and then carefully tap it loose using a 3 lb.
hammer. You just want it out enough that you can remove it by hand and
not let it drop to the ground.
11. Clean up your carrier the best you can of gear oil using brake cleaner
and a clean rag or paper towels. Place the carrier on a clean work bench
and mark it and the ring gear so that you know where to put things back.
12. Place the carrier into a bench vice with the ring gear bolts facing
up and proceed to remove these bolts using an 11/16" socket. Remove
the carrier from the bench vice and remove the ring gear from it. Some
effort may be required but you should be able to do this by hand.
13. Set your carrier back on your work bench with the larger disc end
up. If you look carefully, you should see a small hole that has a rolling
pin inside securing the pinion shaft in place. Take hammer and punch and
tap out this pin.
14. With the rolling pin out, you should be able to remove the pinion
shaft and subsequent spider gears with ease. If the pinion shaft sticks,
a couple of light taps of a hammer and punch should knock it free.
15. The pinion shaft and thrust washers will need to be reused so be sure
to clean them up and check them for wear or damage. Set aside all the other
spider gears, you will not be needing them.
16. Gather up all the Aussie Locker components, the pinion shaft and thrust
washers and apply axle grease to them. The grease will help to keep everything
together like glue as you assemble them together and into your carrier.
NOTE: Please refer to the diagram above before continuing so that you
have an understanding of what is what.
17. With all your components greased, slip a thrust washer onto each of
the Aussie Locker axle gear and insert them into the appropriate location
of your carrier. Driver side thrust washer on the driver side and passenger
side on the passenger side.
18. Now, if you look at your Aussie Locker cam gears, you should see 4
holes on the smooth side of each. 2 will be shallow and fully enclosed
and the other 2 will be deep and partially open on the side of the gear.
Insert a pin (with the stepped end facing into the holes) into each of
the deeper and partially open holes on both cam gears. Once in, the pins
should sit relatively flush to the surface of the cam gear.
19. Insert the Aussie Locker spacers into each of the cam gears (make
sure that the flat sides will be facing each other once assembled) and
then install them onto the axle gears (teeth to teeth) one at a time inside
your carrier.
20. Once inside your carrier, rotate the Aussie Locker components so that
the pinion shaft hole lines up. Then, slip the pins you installed earlier
down into the holes on the opposite side cam gear. Using a small screwdriver,
install a spring onto each of the pins as shown in the pic to the left.
The step on the top of the pin and the recessed hole on the cam gear will
hold the springs securely in place.
21. Slide your pinion shaft back through the carrier and Aussie Locker
and secure it into place with the rolling pin you removed earlier.
22. Reinstall your ring gear onto the carrier being mindful that the marks
you drew on it earlier line up. Then, place your carrier back into your
bench vice and reinstall the ring gear bolts in a star pattern. Torque
these bolts to 80 ft. lbs., again in a star pattern.
23. Clean up your carrier and Aussie Locker one last time using brake
cleaner making sure it is free of debris or metal pieces and then carefully
reinstall it back into your differential housing. Make sure your bearing
caps go back on the way they came out and torque the bolts to 45 ft. lbs.
24. Carefully slide your axle shafts back in, bolt them into place and
then torque the 3 bolts down to 75 ft. lbs. Just to make sure everything
has been installed correctly, go to one side of your axle and rotate your
hub by hand. You should see that the opposite side is now rotating too.
25. Cut the zip ties holding your disc brake calipers, reinstall them
and torque the caliper bolts to 11 ft. lbs.
26. Back to your differential, cover up your carrier and newly installed
Aussie Locker with some paper towels and then proceed to thoroughly clean
the RTV off your differential housing and cover using a gasket scraper.
Do a good job here or else you will end up doing it again.
27. Once cleaned, remove the paper towels out of your differential, clean
up any gasket debris and then prep the mating surface of it and the cover
by spraying and then wiping them down thoroughly with brake or carb cleaner.
28. Apply a continuous 1/4" bead of RTV along the mating surface
of the differential cover as shown in the diagram to the right and then,
carefully place it onto your differential making sure not to move it around
too much. Fasten the bolts in a criss cross pattern to 30 ft. lbs. of torque.
It is very important that you do NOT over torque your bolts and installation
of the cover should be done within a 5 minute after applying the RTV.
29. Now, fill up your differential with the appropriate gear oil recommended
for your axle. I have a Dana44 rear end with a Trac-Loc which requires
a special friction modifier to work properly. Most synthetic gear oils
like Valvoline make already have it mixed in. Using a cheap bottle pump
($2 at PepBoys) will make it a lot easier to do this task. Keep filling
your differential until gear oil starts to ooze out of the fill hole and
then re-install the fill bolt to 25 ft. lbs. of torque.
30. Reinstall your wheels, jack up one side of your jeep and remove one
jack stand so that one wheel is still up in the air. Go to this wheel and
rotate it by hand. If you installed everything correctly, it should rotate
freely. Do not be alarmed if you here a ratcheting or clicking while the
tire rotates. This is normal for an autolocker and will be virtually transparent
on the road.
31. Remove your last jack stand, torque your lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs.,
remove your wheel chocks and then take your Jeep out for a spin.
That should be it! You are now locked up and ready to take trails you
would have never dreamed of and on your own power. Don't forget to take
your gear oil into your local auto parts store be recycled and not dump
it in the trash or worse. Please let me know if you have any questions.